Graf Watch Straps 19mm SEIKO 5

I like Seiko 5 watches, but their metal bracelets leave a lot to be desired. Enter the Graf company of Germany with their hand sewn uneven 19mm leather straps. I chose a Toledo calfskin model and could not be happier with the result. The tapered (16mm) buckle is massive stainless steel, not just chrome plated brass. It looks great on a 5er and wears extremely well. Highly recommended. These straps can mostly be had in XL format for wrists with a bigger circumference.  They are not cheap. 20 dollars.

Seiko Santa Claus Attack ! SNX111 & SGEF81

Recently, I “stumbled” over two inexpensive Seiko timepieces that I absolutely had to have. One is quartz powered, the other is an automatic timepiece. 

The Seiko SNX111 is one of your typical famous Seiko 5ers. The stainless case is 37 or 38mm (depending on where you measure, but always without the crown) wide with a classic silver colored dial and Lumibrite markings on the hands and hour index points. Seiko has great lume. The crown on this model is placed “correctly” at three o´clock, not at four o´clock. You find that very often on 5ers. I can´t stand that. If it were not for the day and date display window, this automatic watch reminds me a bit of the Rolex Air King. 5ers have an unusual 19mm strap lug width, so if you want to replace the somewhat noisy and hair-popping folded metal band, be sure to find a piece of leather that perfectly matches.

The 5er movements are reliable and time-proven and should be good for many years before they will need major servicing. At 70 dollars including shipping from Asia, this watch was a good bit cheaper than usually found in German shops. The white colored date window has black English and French letters, so maybe this model is not officially imported at all into this market. The SNX also comes in a black face version, with a highly contrasting white date window. I prefer my version, as any leather strap color will eventually match and the “SEIKO” logo is somewhat pale.

The simple 5ers should be kept away from too much water, swimming is not recommended with them. I have had watches with “100m water resistance” damaged by heavy summer rainfalls, 5ers are only good for 30 meters from the factory. I guess you can wash your car or fish around in a water bucket for a few moments with one on your wrist, but take it off before you shower.

Since a few years, Seiko shows off the mechanical 7S26 movements in their 5ers with a see-through base. I have read once that his is a marketing move meant to teach teenagers about mechanical watches. In Japan, many kids do not wear watches, using their cell phones for telling the time. Is this an urban myth ? Mail me if you know more. 

My other new Seiko is a black faced (with corresponding black date window) quartz model named SGEF81 with a 39mm sized case. This one comes with a 20mm wide calf leather strap that is a bit stiff, but looks great. The hands and face of this one are free of any lume, so the “EDC”-value might be lowered a good bit.

The second hand on my sample is hitting right on the corresponding minute bars. I have emailed the seller about this before buying as I consider it a quality feature. I know this is somewhat “anal”, but I do not see why it cannot be a part of the factory quality control. This watch should be great for formal attire, as it is very understated and elegant at the same time.

I don´t like watches with too much “bling” factor and find that they can be “boring” to own over time. Timelessness in watches (what a great pun!) can be achieved by leaving things away, not adding fashion fads. The keepers for me are always the ones which achieve “perfection” by simplicity.

 

Casio Duro MDV-106 Quartz Diving Watch

Some months ago, Casio has entered the market with a new diver style wristwatch, the MDV 106 from the Duro series. 200m water resistance, a screwed crown and case back, with a turning bezel for elapsed time measurements, are the typical features of these watches. The Casio delivers in all aspects. The bezel is 44mm wide. It is very tightly fitted and rotates with 120 clicks, feeling solid and accurate. Really remarkable in this price range. The black face of my version has a metallic sheen to it that is quite attractive. I opted for the rubber strap version that wears nicely over extended periods of time. A metal bracelet version of the MDV 106 is available, but I wanted to save the weight. 87 grams for the complete watch are quite comfortable. The mineral crystal is flat as opposed to the domed one of the discontinued MDV 102. The lume quality is also above average. It is not in the Seiko range, but some steps above the usual wanting Casio quality. My second hand tip is hitting right on the corresponding indices. Overall, I recommend this watch highly. I currently wear it every day and cannot find anything real to criticize on it. Here is a short video impression.

Casio MRW 200 “Beater” Watch

If you are on the market for an inexpensive watch with “tactical” or diving styling, I can recommend the Casio MRW 200 series.

Do not expect too much lume quality from it and the turning bezel is only press fitted, but works. It is a decent size at around 40 mm without the crown. The strap is very comfortable and fits even larger wrists.

The military numbered dial version that I have reminds me quite a bit of the Breitling Colt.  Maybe I will get the MRW200H-1B2, too. There are four variations of the watch face available at the time this is written.

Orient Vintage Dress Watch BEM5X003D

As a lover of the cushion shape watch cases that were so popular in the 60s and 70s of the last century, I had to get this one. This is the basic line automatic in-house-movement “3 star series” of Orient, somewhat comparable to the Seiko 5 series. The strange button at 2 o´clock serves as a quick adjustment module for the day of the week, you will also find it on the famous “Mako” diver from the same company. The nicely finished stainless steel case is not see-through at the bottom, which I prefer. Diameter is a solid 38mm without the crown. Lug width is the standard 20mm, but the folded stainless band is not on par with the rest of the watch. It rattles quite a bit and pinches your arm hairs. I highly recommend a nice leather strap. Different dial colors are available.  This line of watches is only “water resistant”, so swimming with it is not recommended and you should take it off your wrist before showering. Otherwise, I think they really are great timepieces for around 50 – 60 Euros.

Orient Day Date Watch

At 36mm without the crown, these models are not en vogue any more among people with an adiposity problem. They are sadly no longer made. I have removed the date magnifing glass from mine to give it a more individual look. They have an automatic movement that is exclusive to Orient.

Uzi Guardian Watch

Step aside, G-Shock! Today, I found a very much anticipated UZI Guardian digital wristwatch in my mailbox. I can´t say too many bad things about it. Actually, I love it! It is extremely BIG at 47mm across, but also very lightweight. If it were not for it´s size, I would not notice it on my wrist.

It also seems quite well made, more so than I expected considering the low price tag. The case is made from hard plastic that feels quite tough, the band and bezel are fabricated from a hard rubber material, the buckle is solid and stainless steel. The digits are big and bold, about three times the size of conventional G-Shocks! There is a yellow, bronze or golden shine to the giant display, when you press the light button it turns to pale blue.  Four screws hold the stainless caseback in place. The band keeper cannot slip around, thank you for that. There is a velcro strap version of the Guardian available, but Ì´m sure it is scratchy as hell.

The standard display shows your standard time (12 or 24 hrs mode) with the seconds in a line for themselves below the hours and minutes and the day of the week and month above it. In the other modes, we have a daily alarm, a second time zone, a timer, a chronograph with a lap stop and a seperate adjust mode. What more do you, realistically, need ?

The watch is made in China and only waterproof to 50 meters, so I would not really recommend it for extended swimming. Car washing or the occasional shower should not pose a problem. You cannot mute the buttons, which could be a problem as their beep is very loud, possibly even eating away at the battery. Also, you will have to look at the display in a relatively straight angle to tell an accurate time, but almost all digital watches (and many analog ones) have this “problem”.

I´m looking forward to use this somewhat extravagant timepiece as my EDWBW (EveryDayWearBeaterWatch) and see if  it will hold up to doorframes and daily shocks. It might turn out to be worth a lot more than I paid for it. Some people might not like the somewhat senseless UZI marketing branding on it, but I´m sure Major Uziel Gal would have liked the watch anyway…

Casio G-Shock G-6900

From all the G-Shocks I know (by far not all of them…), this is currently my favorite one. I love the case shape (a modern classic by now, just like the 5600…), the “medium” size and the solar power function. The latter means that you will never have to open that watch and it will stay waterproof to 200 meters for it´s lifetime, in theory.

Mine refuses to give me problems. It is not radio-controlled, as the G-6900 is intended for those markets like Australia where no signal can be received. The display is clear and crisp and the buttons can be “muted”, an added bonus for me. Out of the half dozen or so that I wear on a regular basis, this is the watch I go for in the morning when I do not know if the day is going to be rough  

Casio MDV 102 quartz dive watch

There is a special Casio dive watch in my rotation that i always keep coming back to. It is somewhat of a “sleeper”, and quite simply a bargain, from the DURO series and available with a rubber strap or a steel bracelet. The case width without the crown is a solid 41 mm. In todays market, that must be considered “unisex” size for some

The MDV 102 is a very solidly built timepiece with a clear “tool-watch” design that is a bit of a mixture of Doxa and Omega to my eyes. Water resistance is 200 meters, the crown is screwed. There are two LEDs that light up the face at night if you press the button at 2 o´clock. A unidirectional bezel lets you measure short time distances. Actually, the watch can be used as an emergency flashlight if you keep the button pressed !

Cons ? Well, the domed mineral glass can give off some nasty light reflections from time to time and the band width on this watch is an uneven 21 mm, making selection of an aftermarket (nato?) strap somewhat difficult. The bezel could offer more resistance, too. That´s about it.

I highly recommend the steel bracelet version, as it is unusually comfortable to wear, quite secure and makes the watch look very expensive from a distance, but it does not seem to be available everywhere. I´m not sure if you can get is as a replacement part. Some versions of the watch have a dolphin logo on the face and base, some don´t.

Being battery operated, the MDV 102 should take considerably more abuse than any mechanical watch can ever hope to. Just remember when you changed the batteries and have it done again before you leave for the lonely island at the end of the world. The asthetics should also fit most lifestyles. The watch can be had from Amazon and has gathered an amazing amount of positive reviews from buyers there. Not a “sleeper” any more…

Edit Nov. 1st 2011 : The MDV 102 seems to have been discontinued by Casio…

Alpha “Sub” Hommage Watch

Looking through my array of watches a few months ago, I found that I was without a Rolex Submariner hommage. Looking through my wallet, I found that i could not afford the original anyway. Besides, the idea of having such an amount of cash on my wrist never pleased me.I had read mixed things about Alpha watches from China on several watch forums, but they looked really great on most photos there, so i ordered one from Alpha´s homepage via paypal. The price of  (currently) 58 dollars includes shipping with registered mail.Upon arrival of the small box several weeks later, i found the index bar at six o clock having become loose, probably during the postal ride, happily flying around under the crystal. Two days later, the Alpha was back on its way to China for repair. Another three weeks later, it was returned to me. Repaired. The one year guarantee against defects seems to work. Quite frankly, i had not expected to see my watch again.I have worn the watch every day since then and i must say that the bracelet is quite well made with screwed-together links and comfortable on the wrist. The clasp is not up to the standard of the bracelet, being cheap and thin sheet metal. I am told that Rolex didn´t make them any better for several decades, up until the 1980s. The Alpha weighs in at 126 gr.The finish of the case leaves not a lot to be desired and the bezel clicks 120 times with pleasing accuracy, unidirectional. It´s not in the league of the Fortis Cosmonaut Diver i owned in the late 90s, but i have seen and felt considerably worse on other, more expensive watches. It is certainly good enough to exactly measure your parking time.I cannot comment on the movement as i have no tool for opening the case. Alpha seems to use different chinese (Seagull) movements, sometimes improving them over time without notice. They are held in place with an ugly plastic ring. The movement feels very “dry” when setting the hands and date. It remains to be seen how it runs in one or two years and how daily shocks will affect it. Also, you have to bear in mind that the watch is officially only waterproof to 30 meters. I have no doubts that it would take at least (!) twice of that, but you just cannot be sure. No O-rings are evident at the crown. Some silicone grease might help a bit. Let´s bear in mind that humidity has to work it´s way through those srew channels first…The lume of the Alpha is also not the best. The hour markers glow a good bit after dark, but the hands cannot be made out during night hours. Summing up, the Alpha “Sub” is certainly a good looking watch that is very true to the original and boasts an automatic movement. If that are your biggest concerns, you cannot go wrong with it.

The original Swiss Submariner is a design classic and there are many “diving timepieces” around that look a lot like it. If you buy an Alpha and expect the quality of a similar mechanical watch that costs two or four as much, you are out of luck. For what it is, the Alpha seems a good value to me.